Days 26 - 29 The long drive to Salvador 30th May 2011

So the late start from Olinda meant a long drive to Salvador. We were due to bush camp over night but the decision was made to keep driving through to make up for lost time. I had a couple of hours shift in the front passenger seat keeping look out for pot holes and speed dumps (usually sighnposted but not always and Brazil has thousands of the bloody things!) You get a good view from the cab but it was dark. We stopped at a trucker place on the way for dinner which was 9 reals for a plate piled high with ….can you guess….. yes more rice, beans, spaghetti , salad and meat. That’s about £3.50! There was enough for about 3 people to eat well on each plate. The drive to Salvador was much faster than expected so we stopped in a layby for a couple of hours and then again at a petrol station just outside Salvador. We were not keen on arriving in the dark. It did mean that we got to our Pousada at 9 am and gave us an extra day in Salvador. The pousada staff were so helpful and suggested we all had breakfast at the hotel. This was very welcomed after the steep climb from the street to the hotel. Did I mention that Salvador is very hilly and very steep? We had a lazy day by the pool (whats new!) and late afternoon we headed into town to find a cashpoint! We were told that if you are going to get mugged on the trip then it would be in Salvador! We arrived on a Tuesday which was great because in the Salvador Tuesday night is the new Saturday night! So off we went with our maps which the hotel staff had kindly highlighted with big crosses the roads we must not go on after dark!!!!

Arrving in Salvafor also marked the end of our Manaus to Salvador trip where James and Charlie where leaving us and a new passenger, Ray, was joinging for the trip to Rio
After Some food in town some of us decided to go back to the hotel and were about to go down “piss alley” to get to it when the police told us we could not go down there. We showed the cards the hotel had given us and one of the police knew where it was and said that we could go but to go straight there! Scary! I went on a city tour in the morning with Gwen but the best bit was our guide took us to the best icecream place in all of Salvador. It was started by a Spanish man about 100 years ago and the coconut icecream was sublime!
My last day in Salvador I went to the shopping mall and bought a pair of straightners!!!!!! My best purchase to date. I could not cope with the mess my hair turned into since arriving in Brazil!

Day 25 Olinda - apparently a pretty 29th May 2011

By the time we got to Olinda most of us had washing to do and showers to take so we didn’t see much of the town. We also had a pool available in the Pousada we were staying at so…….. we didn’t get very far. I’m a shamed to say that come evening time because it was raining we stayed there for a light dinner and beer. We left Olinda a little later than we originally planned so that we could have a chance to see a little of the town but I preferred to enjoy the lie in! Oh well, may be another time!

Day 24 Cabaceiras - Land of the Rocks! 28th May 2011

Our next stop was another 300km inland to see some strange rock formations in Lajedo de Pai Mateus.  We were due to bush camp again but the hotel allowed us to camp in their grounds and use the facilities.  We had a unique and over excited guide take us to the rock formations.  He had us in stitches with his constant use of “bloody hell” and the pictures he was taking of himself whilst on Amber!  Shame he kept calling her a bus. The highlight was probably sitting on the roof seats on the way up to the rocks!  Awesome! (Pictures to follow as Wifi not great here!)
There was hermit/spiritual man (!) that lived in one of these rocks but the best bit was the views and sunset.  There was one rock called “the bell which we all pressed our ears to when the guide hit it!  Made us all jump but it did sound like a bell.  One other rock was pretty much hollow inside as proved by the 6 ft plus James. (Pictures to follow as Wifi not great here!)
Most of us ended sleeping in hammocks at the hotel which saved us getting the tents out.  The hotel had some kind of music/dance thing going on for some of the other tourist that were staying there legitimately!

Day 23 Sousa - Valley of the Dinosaurs 27th May 2011

Sousa is an important paleontological area with over 50 types of prehistoric footprints.  We only saw a couple in the Vale Dos Dinossaurios but we were able to camp there for the night in our first “Bush Camp” although as we had limited access to loos and running water you could argue this was not a bush camp.  We set up the kitchen and tents, I think I will call my tent “keith” from here onwards.  Ross and Anki treated us to a lovely fish supper and after a few beers off I went for my first night in a tent. 
So how was my first night?  I was knackered  in the morning!  My self inflating matress that I brought with me was not the most comfortable sleep but it will do and although it was initially hot in the tent it soon cooled down.  My problem was the noise.  Firstly crickets and other night noises are not common in Surrey so was not used to how load they were but I eventually fell asleep.  Then later when I thought it was nearly morning but turned out to be only about midnight (yes I know, unlike me to be asleep so early)I heard sniffing around the outside of the tent.  I have chosen to believe that it was one of the numerous cats in the area or one of our group has same very strange habits at night!!!! I stuck my Ipod on and ignored it but it did occur to me that I should consider the positioning of my tent more carefully next time.  If it had been a hungry dinosaur left over from before the last ice age then it would probably eat me first!  Next time I’ll make sure my tent was not first in the line of fire as it may not be hungry by the time it got to me!  I was woken up again later when album I was listening to had finished but something was moving in the tent.  Remember the beetle problem I mentioned in previous blog, well 3 of the buggers had got into my backpack when I wasn’t looking the day before and of course I had left it open over night in the tent!!!! 
 

Days 21-22 Canoa Quebrada - Otherwise known as “Broken Canoe” 25th May 2011

So after a few chilled days on the beach we get back to the truck and onwards to Canoa Quebrada  (another beach place).  We rocked up at a Pousada on the sea front which was really nice.  After we relaxed late afternoon (I can’t get enough of chill time) we headed to the main street, although I think it’s the only street for a bite to eat.  We found a lovely Spanish place which the most amazing salad.  I have to say Brazil in my mind should not be known for their cuisine.  It also seems hard to find decent salads and veg, but if you are looking for rice and beans then Brazil is for you!  Next day was spent catching up on emails etc and the rest of it on the beach.  I prefer the beach here (to Jeri ) as the sand is much nicer.  We found a nice spot with tables and chairs and our very own waiter to supplies with food and drinks in between dips in the sea.  When I got back to our room in the evening after dinner (and some of the group getting their tongues pierced) I found a couple of small beetles in the room.  Managed to chuck them outside but as you read later they came back to haunt me!

Days 18-20 Jericoacoara - Lifes a beach 22nd May 2011

We had a ½ day driving to where we were being picked up to take us to Jericoacoara.  Amber is a little long to cope with the road in.  We were picked up by a 4x4 and some of us sat in the back with the luggage!  We had a good view and breeze as well as sandflies for part of the way.  We are destined to be covered in bites for the whole of the trip!  Jericoacoara is a very laid back town.  The roads are just sand roads and it has a fashionable hippy vibe to it.  We found a fantastic Arabic place for lunch and then time for a little wander and snoozzzze before a few beers in makeshift bar on the side of the sand road, the music was provided by one of the locals dune buggies pumping stereo system! 
Next morning we had arranged to go out in a couple of these buggies. Our first stop was a gorgeous lake with a little sail boat to take us to the middle where there was a bar.  We spent an hour or so there drinking beer sat at tables in the water and fighting for the hammock in the water.  It was lovely. 



Next we headed a beach for some sun bathing and a spot of lunch.  Our final destination was a large rock which was interesting but the buggies racing each other on the way there was the fun bit! 

Wind swept tree!

Our final day in Jeri was at a slower pace (if that’s possible) with a few hours spent on the beach.  Early evening we headed back to the beach for a few caparinhas at sunset.  At every sunset there is capoeira on the beach which was amazing to watch, especially when our very own Maya joined in.  We enjoyed a final meal at the Arabic place followed by beers at road side bar with a very cool dude (Washington) behind the bar with his magic glasses!

Day 17 Parnaiba Delta - Where is all the wildlife? 21st May 2011

We are picked up in the morning by a couple of 4x4 which take us along the beach, over sand dunes and then on to a couple of smaller speed boats. 




We spend most of the day on the boats looking for wildlife but we only see crabs, a glimse of a caiman and a couple of large lizzards on some trees although we did have fun with the two boats and were treated to a specatular sunset. 

 We were also stuck at one point as the river was sooooo shallow in parts!  We stayed in a town were we met up with Amber and Ross again.

Days 15-16 Barreririnhas - Bucket and Spade time! 19th May 2011

It was still dark when we left the hostel in Sao Luis to reach our afternoon excursion in plenty of time but I didn’t mind as we were heading for what will be the highlight of the trip for me so far.  We arrived in our Poussada (B&B) with enough time for a dip in the river at the back of the hotel before meeting our guide who took us in a 4x4 to the Lencois National Park.  Our destination was the white sand dunes and fresh water lagoons.  We spent the afternoon climbing dunes and then taking a quick dip in the refreshing and beautifully clear lagoons.  It was heaven.   Some of the guys started a game of rolling down the dune into the water.  Looked like fun but I preferred to watch from the water!
We climbed the final dune of the day to watch the sun set and although some clouds had rolled in it was still great.  I was an amazing day and I think the pictures speak for themselves.




The following morning we left in the 4x4 to meet a speedboat which took us for a bit of sliding down more dunes (as demonstrated by the Ross & Anki Race below) and Cabure lighthouse.

 We climbed the 120 steps for a 360 view. 

The boat then took us on to our pousada in time for lunch.   The Pousada was on a bank of sand which had the river on one side and the sea on the other.  After our liquid lunches we had a choice of hammocks, sea, river or all of the above.  The river had a very strong current which made getting back entertaining.  Especially as I chose the “quick mud” part of the river bank to get out of the river but I gave a few fisherman a bit of a giggle so my days work was done!  The pousada only had generator electricity so lights were out at 10 and the water pump also failed while we were there so nothing to do but try to sleep.  Some of the gang slept in hammocks but there was an almighty storm during the night so we all slept in the rooms.
The following morning some of the guys were covered in sand fly bites but I was lucky with only a couple on my elbow maybe the quick mud was a miracle deterrent!

Days 14 Drive Day - Belem to Alcantara 17th May 2011

So our first early start.  We had a full day driving so we packed our bags, loaded Amber and had breakfast at 6.30!  We were on the road by 7am.  The truck is comfy and as we are so high up we get a good view point as we go by.  We had 2 breaks and a lunch stop but other than that it was all go for the drivers!  We in the mean time explored Amber and spent the day playing cards, listening to music and watching the world go by from the windows.  Once out of the city the roads were interesting and barely passable as roads but we attracted a lot of attention in the small villages, especially when Anki was driving. The men seemed to find it jaw dropping to see a woman driving a truck! 
Towards the end of the day we invented a new game – who could get the most waves or thumbs up from the locals!  It was fun but not sure it will last the whole trip.
By the time we reached Alcantara it was dark!  All the hostels were fully booked (some kind of rocket launch) so we arranged for us to put tents up in the garden of one of the pousada’s (B&B).  When we got there we had trouble getting Amber in due to low telephone/Electricity cables.  When we finally did we were told that there were 2 triple rooms available after all and the rest could sleep in hammocks.  We had a lovely meal there, the food was outstanding and we were made very welcome by the owner.  The pousada was defo on the eccentric side but had a lot of charm.  It also had a pool and the most amazing views over the river to Sao Luis which was our next stop.
I’ll post some pictures of the truck soon.

Day 14 Sao Luis - sounds French to me! 18th May 2011

So in the morning we left the truck to go on the barge across the river while we took the faster passenger ferry.  It was a lovely sunny morning and we had some lovely views.  We reached Sao Luis which is split into two parts.  The old historic area, which we stayed in, and the modern side across the bay.  So imagine how impressed I was to see that our hostel as at the top of some very steep and uneven steps. I am clumsy as the best of times but with my back pack and tempretures increasing my the minute….. I was impressed with my ability to negotiate the steps.  We dumped our gear ready for our tour with Bruno the guide.  He kindly supplied us all with paper fans from the local tourist office and off we went.  Sao Luis was lovely with some lovely old buildings (some restored and some not). An interesting place, full of history.  We also visited the local markets and tasted some of the fruits local to Brazil which we had not tried yet.  Some were lovely, some were interesting.   One great bit was the cachaca that we saw and then later tried (sugar cane spirit).
Bottles of Cachaca with Crabs in them!!!

We went to fantastic place which appeared closed but we were let in to find a small bar with hundreds of bottle of this home brew with many different flavourings.  The owner likes to experiment and was happy to give us a taste of his 3 most popular versions: cinnamon, cashew and ginger (I think).  They could all strip the paint of walls!!!!
At lunch time a few of us took ourselves off to find some lunch and found a local place which severed typical food but none of us spoke any portugese so we had to practice our sign language and pointing.  The several beers we had helped with the translation!  The historical part of town would not get a top score from me due to its lack of icecream!  Our time in Sao Luis ended in a strange makeshift bar for a few beers in the evening before heading off for some sleep before out earliest yet departure.


Day 13 - Belem - Where is Amber? 16th May

So we rocked up to Belem on the 15th May with enough time to find the hotel, shower and wash some clothes before we looked for somewhere to eat. It was nice not to have another toasted cheese and ham sandwich! This was our first opportunity to meet the Ross, the co driver for this leg of the journey. The port of Belem has been through some regeneration in recent years which made a nice place to get some pizza and ice-cream!

Amber (the Drago Truck) was still in the harbour being held to ransom! This meant that we stayed an extra day in Belem so we had a whole day to investigate the city instead of just passing through.

The hotel was amazing - hot water and more to the point clean water! In the morning (well closer to lunch time if I am being honest) we investigated the local market, while Anki and Ross sorted out Amber’s release. They had the usual tourist stuff as well as fresh fruit, veg and fish. I can't say the meat looked too fresh in this heat!!!! We also found an area offering many herbal concoctions! One claiming to be natural Viagra - to me they all looked like river water with food colouring. We wandered around the town but apparently all the main attractions are closed on Mondays! We did find the best attraction in town - a great veranda jutting out on the river for a few cold beers! We could see it but finding the entrance proved to be a bit of a challenge. It was stifling hot in Belem and we were glad of a siesta and cold shower in the afternoon (to sleep off the beer on empty stomachs). In the evening we ventured to find some food having skipped lunch (it was just too hot to eat). We tried to something less touristy than the river side but all we found was a shopping mall, so we ate in the food hall and window shopped. Loads of Haviannas but no hair straighteners!

By the time we got back from dinner we found Amber parked outside the hotel.  It was great but also meant an early start the next day.


Days 7-12 Manaus – How many hammocks can you get in a ferry? 10th May 2011

Well the answer is more than you would think! So the fun begins! We had a little time to get some supplies in the morning for our trip down the amazon. We were warned that the meals would be basic so I picked up some pastries for the breakfasts and some crisps to go with the cold beers we were reliably informed would be available on the boat. It took ages to get to the harbour. It’s a 10 minute drive from the hotel but then about another hour to cue! Fortunately we had a cabin to store our stuff (with the added bonus of an ensuite of sorts) while we slept in the hammocks on the middle deck. Once we were shown which were the hammocks that had been hired for us by a local guide he took us off too have some lunch and buy 5 litters of water each. Unfortunately we could not get back in to harbour with out him so then had to wait about an hour or so in the stifling heat.

We got a river taxi back to the boat in the end only to find that 3 guys had put up their hammocks in the middle of ours! When I pulled a face they suggested I string my hammock across them! It was a squeeze without the 3 extra hammocks. Fortunately our local guide noticed and told them to move. By the way, I have now learnt the best way of sleeping in a hammock – diagonally. Seriously it works!



We finally departed at sunset which gave us some specatular view of Manaus.

The ferry trundles along the amazon with a couple of stops along the way, dropping of goods and picking up more stuff. Food was ok but only made it to one meal in the 4 days because there was a bar area on the top deck which served very cold beer and toasted cheese and ham sandwiches. You will notice that cheese and ham are a common theme in my Brazil Blog.

I am struggling to describe the amazon to you. Its so vast in places that you feel you are at sea.



you can just about see a meeting of the waters where the rivers of 2 colours don't mix but run alongside each other.
 In the afternoon we would be treated to music blaring from a speaker on the top deck and endless questions from the locals about where we were from etc. The guys in our group struggled to sleep in the hammocks (all of whom are way over 6 foot) but the rest of us soon got the hang of it. There was one night/early morning when we had a storm and all the hammocks were rocking more violently than was comfortable for my stomach! I didn’t notice, but half the locals were all sitting up right in there hammocks with life jackets on. The storm was not that bad! Everyone was always up and dressed before 6am which made it very difficult for us to sleep, especially with the guy who insisted on playing a drum (very badly) at 6am. He had modelled his look on Jack Sparrow. No really he did!

By the third day and endless beers, reading and card playing we started to see more dwellings on the banks. The kids would come out in their canoes and the passengers threw in little parcels of clothes or some wrapped food which the kids collected. Occasionally the kids would manage to attach themselves to the ferry to sell us some fresh fruit. It was impressive to watch.


Although one girl attached herself to the back of the ferry and her canoe soon filled with water! Eventually she let go and the canoe capsized! It wasn’t long before she was back on it.

We also passed these long sand banks which jutted out into the river which the kids played football along.

As we got closer to Belem instead of stopping the ferry to let passengers off, smaller boats would come along side and take passengers and their copious amounts of luggage!

This part of the trip was great although I was ready for a good shower and a firm bed! The shower/Loo combo in our cabin was ok, but I was definitely ready to have a shower in clear water instead of the brown river water.

Hair update – managed without my straighteners so far but I have never had such curly hair!!! I look like I stuck my finger in a socket with all this frizziness. I might have to buy some in Belem.

Day 6 Manaus – a little bit of sight seeing 10th May 2011

So I guess now that I am official started on this adventure its time to start a little serious sight seeing. We first headed to the Teatro Amazonas to get tickets for an english tour. In the mean time we had to seek out a bank. Here they have serious security and a ticket system. We eventually found a bank that let us withdraw some cash!
So, back to the sigh seeing. The Teatro didn’t wow me from the outside but we were told that it was worth a look on the inside. Much of the material used to build it was imported from Europe.


The dome roof of the opera house

The Opera house is still in use today and we were lucky enough to watch some rehearsals. The curtain is a painted canvas that goes straight up into the dome (shown in the picture above). It is not rolled at all. The ceiling is covered by painted canvases from Europe which depict the arts.


This model is made from lego bricks and was donated to the opera house.







We then went to investigate the fish market which is pretty much as you expect. Rows and rows of fish of varying size and ugliness. Actually it was interesting but it was so hot. We had interesting sandwich with our beers called “Sandwhich Salada” No it wasn’t a salad sandwhich. It had egg, ham, beef patty, cheese, tomato and lettuce. Yummy!

So you think that being in the middle of the amazon that maybe it would be a good idea to visit the zoo to see the animals we might not see in the wild. Hmmmm. We took a local bus which was an adventure in its own right. The zoo itself is a strange place. Its run by some sort of army training center. They had Jaguars, Cougars, plenty of birds, caiman and monkeys. Many of the cages were way too small for the animals except the for the monkeys which had a great space. Its not one you would go out of your way to visit but there was a school trip that day so we ended up being the main attraction. Especially we I slipped and fell on my arse! So yes I am covered in bruises yet again! Why would a region with so much rain have such slippery surfaces?

We had a lovely last meal in Manaus with the group. Followed by the coldest beers in town at Armandos. All round a very pleasant evening.

Day 5 Manaus – Meeting the rest of the group 9th May 2011

So it was time to pack up my stuff and leave my lovely hotel (Go Inn) with hot water & air. My bag was soooooo full that I ended up leaving a couple of t-shirts behind! Just didn’t have enough hands for yet another bag! So off I went to meet the rest of the group at Hotel 10 de Julho. Only a 15 minute walk but with all my gear and the fact it was mid day I was drenched by the time I got there. The hotel was fine, rooms a little small, cold water showers (which was perfect) and very very noisy air con which was essential. Room was sooooooo hot. I dumped my stuff and went left for an ice cream and a spot of people watching from the Teatro square. On the whole the locals were very friendly and took every opportunity to practice their English with me. Good job as my portugese extended as far as Obrigada (thank you) and sign language!
At the group meeting I met our team leader Anki and 5 of the other passengers. One was arriving late that night whilst Ross the co driver and “Amber” (aka Amborghini) were already on their way down the Amazon on a cargo boat to Belem. In the group with have the well travelled Gwen (Australia), & Gabi (Switzerland), our very own Capoeria expert Maya from London and last but not least the 2 very funny lads on their gap year, Charlie and James. We meet the delightful doctor from Canada, Olu the following day.

Days 2-4 Manaus 6th-8th May 2011

I spent these days wandering around “Centro”, sleeping, reading and drinking a lot of water.  I managed a couple of ice lollies too.  The temperature was in the earlier 30s but hideously humid!  Manaus is within the Amazona state where the two mighty rivers (Solimones & Negro) meet.  It was once the centre of the rubber boom in the late 19th century and dubbed the “Paris of the tropics” with its elegant Opera house.  It declared itself a duty free port to attract big businesses to Manaus.  (population 1.7m)
  (view from the “Teatro Amazonas” balcony)

Day 1 – So the adventure begins 5th May 2011

Nothing like an early start! By the time I got to the airport I had already been awake about 20 hours (yes, I was repacking again at the last minute). Both my day pack and ruck sack were solid! I managed to leave my watch, ring and bracelet in security area, fortunately realised quickly and got them back. Got to Paris for the first connection and then had to go through security again, and this time I caused chaos because I did not remove all electrical goods from my day pack! In all the confusion I hadn’t noticed that my netbook and passport had not passed through the machine. I walked away having had to try and stuff everything into my very full bag. I was horrified when I realised what I had done. The ladies were very helpful when the realised what had happened and scalded the young lad for not passing the stuff through! This wasn’t boding well for the next three months!


When I was in Peru with Jo & Charl I would have left my sleeping bag in my first bus trip with them if they hadn’t been on the ball. I put it down to them being experienced and I hope I get there quickly without leaving too many possessions on the way! Although it could be argued that maybe I need to loose a few things to make packing a little easier!

The flight to Rio was a very boring 12 hours! Got through several films (Dad - including the tourist). And I also managed to get the connection at Rio without too much hassle. Made a friend on that flight that made lots of suggestions about where to go and what to see (had lots of pictures for me to see of the places he had visited). |I read that Brazilians are proud of their nation and so far I agree.  He obviously thought I was a little green behind the ears so gave me his business card in case I need any help when I get to Rio!

After such a long journey and some 40 odd hours awake (with a couple of ½ hour naps) you can imagine my first day was uneventful. No great view from my window but the corridor window has a view of Teatro Amazones which is in all the guidebooks I wasn’t overly impressed. Had a wonder around, picked up some supplies and now looking for an early night so I can make better use of tomorrow.