So the late start from Olinda meant a long drive to Salvador. We were due to bush camp over night but the decision was made to keep driving through to make up for lost time. I had a couple of hours shift in the front passenger seat keeping look out for pot holes and speed dumps (usually sighnposted but not always and Brazil has thousands of the bloody things!) You get a good view from the cab but it was dark. We stopped at a trucker place on the way for dinner which was 9 reals for a plate piled high with ….can you guess….. yes more rice, beans, spaghetti , salad and meat. That’s about £3.50! There was enough for about 3 people to eat well on each plate. The drive to Salvador was much faster than expected so we stopped in a layby for a couple of hours and then again at a petrol station just outside Salvador. We were not keen on arriving in the dark. It did mean that we got to our Pousada at 9 am and gave us an extra day in Salvador. The pousada staff were so helpful and suggested we all had breakfast at the hotel. This was very welcomed after the steep climb from the street to the hotel. Did I mention that Salvador is very hilly and very steep? We had a lazy day by the pool (whats new!) and late afternoon we headed into town to find a cashpoint! We were told that if you are going to get mugged on the trip then it would be in Salvador! We arrived on a Tuesday which was great because in the Salvador Tuesday night is the new Saturday night! So off we went with our maps which the hotel staff had kindly highlighted with big crosses the roads we must not go on after dark!!!!
Arrving in Salvafor also marked the end of our Manaus to Salvador trip where James and Charlie where leaving us and a new passenger, Ray, was joinging for the trip to Rio
After Some food in town some of us decided to go back to the hotel and were about to go down “piss alley” to get to it when the police told us we could not go down there. We showed the cards the hotel had given us and one of the police knew where it was and said that we could go but to go straight there! Scary! I went on a city tour in the morning with Gwen but the best bit was our guide took us to the best icecream place in all of Salvador. It was started by a Spanish man about 100 years ago and the coconut icecream was sublime!
My last day in Salvador I went to the shopping mall and bought a pair of straightners!!!!!! My best purchase to date. I could not cope with the mess my hair turned into since arriving in Brazil!
Day 25 Olinda - apparently a pretty 29th May 2011
By the time we got to Olinda most of us had washing to do and showers to take so we didn’t see much of the town. We also had a pool available in the Pousada we were staying at so…….. we didn’t get very far. I’m a shamed to say that come evening time because it was raining we stayed there for a light dinner and beer. We left Olinda a little later than we originally planned so that we could have a chance to see a little of the town but I preferred to enjoy the lie in! Oh well, may be another time!
Day 24 Cabaceiras - Land of the Rocks! 28th May 2011
Our next stop was another 300km inland to see some strange rock formations in Lajedo de Pai Mateus. We were due to bush camp again but the hotel allowed us to camp in their grounds and use the facilities. We had a unique and over excited guide take us to the rock formations. He had us in stitches with his constant use of “bloody hell” and the pictures he was taking of himself whilst on Amber! Shame he kept calling her a bus. The highlight was probably sitting on the roof seats on the way up to the rocks! Awesome! (Pictures to follow as Wifi not great here!)
There was hermit/spiritual man (!) that lived in one of these rocks but the best bit was the views and sunset. There was one rock called “the bell which we all pressed our ears to when the guide hit it! Made us all jump but it did sound like a bell. One other rock was pretty much hollow inside as proved by the 6 ft plus James. (Pictures to follow as Wifi not great here!)
Most of us ended sleeping in hammocks at the hotel which saved us getting the tents out. The hotel had some kind of music/dance thing going on for some of the other tourist that were staying there legitimately!
Day 23 Sousa - Valley of the Dinosaurs 27th May 2011
Sousa is an important paleontological area with over 50 types of prehistoric footprints. We only saw a couple in the Vale Dos Dinossaurios but we were able to camp there for the night in our first “Bush Camp” although as we had limited access to loos and running water you could argue this was not a bush camp. We set up the kitchen and tents, I think I will call my tent “keith” from here onwards. Ross and Anki treated us to a lovely fish supper and after a few beers off I went for my first night in a tent.
So how was my first night? I was knackered in the morning! My self inflating matress that I brought with me was not the most comfortable sleep but it will do and although it was initially hot in the tent it soon cooled down. My problem was the noise. Firstly crickets and other night noises are not common in Surrey so was not used to how load they were but I eventually fell asleep. Then later when I thought it was nearly morning but turned out to be only about midnight (yes I know, unlike me to be asleep so early)I heard sniffing around the outside of the tent. I have chosen to believe that it was one of the numerous cats in the area or one of our group has same very strange habits at night!!!! I stuck my Ipod on and ignored it but it did occur to me that I should consider the positioning of my tent more carefully next time. If it had been a hungry dinosaur left over from before the last ice age then it would probably eat me first! Next time I’ll make sure my tent was not first in the line of fire as it may not be hungry by the time it got to me! I was woken up again later when album I was listening to had finished but something was moving in the tent. Remember the beetle problem I mentioned in previous blog, well 3 of the buggers had got into my backpack when I wasn’t looking the day before and of course I had left it open over night in the tent!!!!
Days 21-22 Canoa Quebrada - Otherwise known as “Broken Canoe” 25th May 2011
So after a few chilled days on the beach we get back to the truck and onwards to Canoa Quebrada (another beach place). We rocked up at a Pousada on the sea front which was really nice. After we relaxed late afternoon (I can’t get enough of chill time) we headed to the main street, although I think it’s the only street for a bite to eat. We found a lovely Spanish place which the most amazing salad. I have to say Brazil in my mind should not be known for their cuisine. It also seems hard to find decent salads and veg, but if you are looking for rice and beans then Brazil is for you! Next day was spent catching up on emails etc and the rest of it on the beach. I prefer the beach here (to Jeri ) as the sand is much nicer. We found a nice spot with tables and chairs and our very own waiter to supplies with food and drinks in between dips in the sea. When I got back to our room in the evening after dinner (and some of the group getting their tongues pierced) I found a couple of small beetles in the room. Managed to chuck them outside but as you read later they came back to haunt me!
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