Days 7-12 Manaus – How many hammocks can you get in a ferry? 10th May 2011

Well the answer is more than you would think! So the fun begins! We had a little time to get some supplies in the morning for our trip down the amazon. We were warned that the meals would be basic so I picked up some pastries for the breakfasts and some crisps to go with the cold beers we were reliably informed would be available on the boat. It took ages to get to the harbour. It’s a 10 minute drive from the hotel but then about another hour to cue! Fortunately we had a cabin to store our stuff (with the added bonus of an ensuite of sorts) while we slept in the hammocks on the middle deck. Once we were shown which were the hammocks that had been hired for us by a local guide he took us off too have some lunch and buy 5 litters of water each. Unfortunately we could not get back in to harbour with out him so then had to wait about an hour or so in the stifling heat.

We got a river taxi back to the boat in the end only to find that 3 guys had put up their hammocks in the middle of ours! When I pulled a face they suggested I string my hammock across them! It was a squeeze without the 3 extra hammocks. Fortunately our local guide noticed and told them to move. By the way, I have now learnt the best way of sleeping in a hammock – diagonally. Seriously it works!

We finally departed at sunset which gave us some specatular view of Manaus.

The ferry trundles along the amazon with a couple of stops along the way, dropping of goods and picking up more stuff. Food was ok but only made it to one meal in the 4 days because there was a bar area on the top deck which served very cold beer and toasted cheese and ham sandwiches. You will notice that cheese and ham are a common theme in my Brazil Blog.

I am struggling to describe the amazon to you. Its so vast in places that you feel you are at sea.



you can just about see a meeting of the waters where the rivers of 2 colours don't mix but run alongside each other.

 In the afternoon we would be treated to music blaring from a speaker on the top deck and endless questions from the locals about where we were from etc. The guys in our group struggled to sleep in the hammocks (all of whom are way over 6 foot) but the rest of us soon got the hang of it. There was one night/early morning when we had a storm and all the hammocks were rocking more violently than was comfortable for my stomach! I didn’t notice, but half the locals were all sitting up right in there hammocks with life jackets on. The storm was not that bad! Everyone was always up and dressed before 6am which made it very difficult for us to sleep, especially with the guy who insisted on playing a drum (very badly) at 6am. He had modelled his look on Jack Sparrow. No really he did!

By the third day and endless beers, reading and card playing we started to see more dwellings on the banks. The kids would come out in their canoes and the passengers threw in little parcels of clothes or some wrapped food which the kids collected. Occasionally the kids would manage to attach themselves to the ferry to sell us some fresh fruit. It was impressive to watch.

Although one girl attached herself to the back of the ferry and her canoe soon filled with water! Eventually she let go and the canoe capsized! It wasn’t long before she was back on it.

We also passed these long sand banks which jutted out into the river which the kids played football along.

As we got closer to Belem instead of stopping the ferry to let passengers off, smaller boats would come along side and take passengers and their copious amounts of luggage!

This part of the trip was great although I was ready for a good shower and a firm bed! The shower/Loo combo in our cabin was ok, but I was definitely ready to have a shower in clear water instead of the brown river water.

Hair update – managed without my straighteners so far but I have never had such curly hair!!! I look like I stuck my finger in a socket with all this frizziness. I might have to buy some in Belem.